Description


An epic sea kayaking adventure down the west coast of Canada.

Friday, August 5, 2011

Trip Log Part 5: Discovery Islands and Sunshine Coast

Day 24 -- Port Neville to Green Point Rapid
Date: July 19
Distance: 28 nautical miles
Duration:  7 1/2 hours with an hour break for lunch
Forecast: Afternoon strong wind warning - NW 25 knots
Actual conditions: NW wind 15 knots rising to 25 knots, partly cloudy/sunny


We packed up and had muffins on the beach.  The caretaker chatted with us as we were preparing to leave.  We gave him a donation to help him expand his library.  We passed a group of kayakers who were still on the Beach at Blenkinsop Bay.  Going into Sunderland channel we saw 3 orcas pass by.  The current was against us, so we eddy hopped up stream and then used the building wind waves to surf across the channel and make progress. It was serious surfing with the wind and against a strong current - great fun. We went through whirlpool rapid but before doing so we had lunch waiting for it to turn.  We went through close to slack.  As we entered Chancellor Channel we found an exciting race going off. By this stage the wind was quite strong and the seas big . We surfed our way up through the race and surfed up stream before crossing. We had a great series of wind waves for the crossing again.  It got really rough for a while and a big motorboat did a U-turn and came by to check on us in mid-channel to see if we were OK.  We were fine, and enjoying the surfing. It was like our training runs in the Columbia River Gorge back home. We saw 2 black bears, several porpoises, and 13 bald eagles.  We went through Green Pt. Rapid while it was still flooding fairly hard.  It was churning a bit and the current really picked up at the top of it. We did a quick ferry across and caught an eddy to skirt the worst turbulence.  We camped at a great rocky island right after it in the Cordero Islands group.  Later that evening the group of kayakers we had seen on the beach earlier came by.  They consisted of a Professor and a large group of students from his kayaking program at Pearson (?) College. They had launched at Prince Rupert a week or two before we had.  They had weathered out the wet storms as well.  They all seemed to be doing well. We were impressed.

Eddy hopping up Sunderland Channel early in the day


Crossing Sunderland Channel in light tail winds


Heading toward Whirlpool Rapids early in the day


Flowers at camp in the Cordero Islands


Our rock ledge camp in the Cordero Islands


Jonathan struggles in the undergrowth to secure the bear bagging line



Day 25– Green Point Rapids to South Rendezvous Islands
Date: July 20
Distance: 28 nautical miles
Duration:  9 ½ hours paddling with a 1 hr lunch break and a hair washing session
Actual conditions: strong current against all day, wind against but not too strong

We set off and had the current against us.  Even the eddies weren’t going our way.  We went through Dent Rapids and Yuculta eddy hopping up against really strong currents.  We stayed closed to the shore paddling through kelp trying to make progress.  The water was moving really fast in the opposite direction in mid-channel. The rapids did not seem to reverse when they should have this day (we checked and double checked the tidal current tables). There were spectacular views of steep mountains, evidence of logging and fish farms.  Around Yuculta there were numerous very fancy fly in fishing lodges and lots of powerful powerboats zipping around creating wakes for us to contend with in the slim eddies along the shore.  We spent a really long hard day counting barnacles. Eventually we found a great campsite on South Rendezvous.  It was a mossy rock outcropping and we found a perfect spot for the shelter and the tent.  A storm blew through bringing wind and a downpour.  We saw someone swimming in the sea here. The water was very warm.  We saw 7 bald eagles, 1 black bear, sea lions, seals, sea urchins, pods of porpoises, and loads of sea cucumbers. 





Jenny in Cordero Channel


Jenny in Cordero Channel


Jenny in Cordero Channel


Jenny in Cordero Channel


Jenny in Cordero Channel. Its raining again


A nice but rainy camp on South Rendezvous Island




Day 26–South Rendezvous Island to Copeland Islands
Date: July 21
Distance: 20 nautical miles
Duration:  4 ½ hours paddling without a land stop
Actual conditions: current against, wind at our back

We woke to sunshine and a North West wind.  We were going against the current but the wind was pushing us along nicely.  We surfed our little hearts out and even passed 2 sailboats going our direction with their sails out.   When we hit Desolation Sound area the wind waves changed directions and there was a lot of boat traffic.  We had nice views of snow capped peaks on both sides, Vancouver Island and the Mainland.  Kinghorn Island has lots of seals and small pups on rock ledges on its south side.  We had a nice camp on one of the northern most Copeland Islands, with a slight breeze and sunshine the rest of the day.  We dried all our stuff and even had a sunset!



Seals near Kinghorn Island


Our camp in the Copeland Islands


The view north from just above our camp


Sunset from camp












Trip Log Part 4: Vancouver Island North Straits

Day 21–Port Hardy to Bere Point on Malcolm Island
Date: July 16
Distance: 19 nautical miles
Duration:  6 hours with one quick stop
Actual conditions: Calm, 10 knot head wind and rain late

We set off later to go with the flooding tide.  The sun was shining and it was warm so we wore our shorties.  We saw beautiful rugged snow capped mountains to the east. We struck out on a 10 mile crossing to Malcolm Island. We saw porpoises and heard whales.  Stormy rain clouds developed to the west and we could see it drenching the hills.  We lost the race as it moved out and over us eventually.  We finally pulled up on a steep gravel beach at Malcolm Island and then quickly set up a shelter and tried to wait the rain out a bit.  We didn’t have much luck with that!  It was persistent as usual. We found a viewing platform and a trail in the woods with an information sign about orcas.  They come to this beach to rub their bellies on the pebbles.  There is an outhouse at the trailhead to the east and a campground as well.  While at camp we saw porpoises, whales and sea lions. 


Leaving the bay outside Port Hardy

Heading south east down Queen Charlotte Strait

A calm crossing to Malcolm Island

Storm clouds threaten to engulf us

Its definitely raining over there, and its coming this way

Caught by the clouds on a long open crossing

Stormy to the west, sunny to the east, but we're going south

Nearing Malcolm Island


Day 22–Bere Point on Malcolm Island to Sophie Islands 
Date: July 17
Distance: 22 nautical miles
Duration:  5 1/2 hours without stopping
Actual conditions:

We had another long crossing and saw several pairs of humpbacks.  We encountered a group of kayakers.  We had swirlies and crazy currents with 3 channels converging at Cracroft Point at max flood. We entered Johnstone strait and saw several pods of porpoises.  We paddled to the Sophie Island group to have lunch and decided to make it camp there.  It is a rock ledge camp with a view of great clouds and snowy mountains to the West. Its a fabulous spot for watching whales, but we didn't see any until morning.  A pair of piliated woodpeckers flew to a tree behind our tent.  Shipping traffic continually passed by.


We awoke to see 18 fishing boats within talking distance of our tent

Heading toward Blackfish Sound

Crossing toward Blackfish Sound

Urchin

Our rock ledge camp at Sophie Islands

Jenny getting dinner

A nice view from the kitchen

Jon lazing around waiting for whales


Day 23–Sophie Islands to Port Neville
Date: July 18
Distance: 23 nautical miles
Duration:  5 hours with an hour lunch break
Actual conditions: current against, calm in the morning, 15 knots wind with us in the afternoon

When packing up in the morning two orcas came 30 feet off our shore heading South.  They were tail slapping loudly.  We eddy hopped most of the morning and then we had a NW tail wind for the 2nd half pushing us along nicely.  We surfed and made good time.  We saw two black bears shifting rocks effortlessly along the shore.  We saw a massive stampede of Dahles porpoises in the middle of Johnstone Strait.  The caretaker at Port Neville invited us to camp there.  There used to be a post office and a store here.  The store closed in 1960 and the post office closed just last year.  We were able to get drinking water here.  Jill and Bryan had their boat, Hot Rum, at the dock and they brought us fresh baked muffins and invited us aboard for some hot chocolate.  We enjoyed checking out their beautiful boat and visiting with them.  Jonathan correctly identified the Cornish flag they were flying. They were surprised.



Orcas in the morning

Male orca at dawn

Jonathan checks out a black bear on shore

Black bear moving rocks

Black bear moving rocks

A lack of trust

Jenny in Johnstone Strait with Vancouver Island in the background

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Jenny in Johnstone Strait

Jenny at the Broken Islands

Lunch break at the Broken Islands

Lunch break at the Broken Islands

Lunch break at the Broken Islands

Wind picking up after lunch

Heading back out into Johnstone Strait

Jenny in Johnstone Strait

This place looks even wetter than our tent

Port Neville Post Office

Early morning view of Vancouver Island from Port Neville