Home Safely

We finally arrived at the end of our journey this afternoon, terminating the Voyage of the Pilgrims at Boston Harbor (which in this case is near Olympia, Washington, at the south end of the Puget Sound, not in Massachusetts). We had not originally planned to paddle this far, but having settled into our daily routine of paddling south is seemed to make sense to keep going until we were out of water to paddle. We're now back home thanks to a timely pick-up from Kirti who arrived at the boat ramp by car at exactly the same time as our arrival by kayak.  I must admit that it was a bit of a slog paddling the 150 miles or so from the San Juan Islands to Olympia in just three and a half days, but I don't think it was as hard as battling the wind and tide for 300 miles down the east side of Vancouver Island! Our journey there coincided with a period of near perpetual northbound tidal currents during daylight hours, and in case that was not enough, we got a heavy dose of South Easterly winds to go with it. This combination made for some very hard miles and we spent a good deal of time "counting barnacles" along the shore line. After wondering how all that water could travel north and not flow back south again we came to the realization that on the BC coast tidal streams flow north perpetually but the water comes back down south in the form of rain, hence completing the cycle! Fortunately, we have had some drier sunnier weather over the past week or two so camping has been much easier and we have been able to dry our gear. We have some cleaning up and resting to do over the next few days, but we hope to post some pictures and a more detailed trip log in the near future, so stay tuned. -- Jon

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The Pilgrims
Latitude:47.14013
Longitude:-122.90536
GPS location Date/Time:07/31/2011 16:23:10 PDT

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The Pilgrims
Latitude:47.26662
Longitude:-122.56454
GPS location Date/Time:07/30/2011 18:30:00 PDT

Message:Hello everyone! Just checking in to let you know where we are and to say all is well! J, K and J.

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/5XRLW/47.26662N/122.56454W

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The Pilgrims
Latitude:47.70264
Longitude:-122.50679
GPS location Date/Time:07/29/2011 16:51:09 PDT

Message:Hello everyone! Just checking in to let you know where we are and to say all is well! J, K and J.

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/5Whcc/47.70264N/122.50679W

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http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=47.70264,-122.50679&ll=47.70264,-122.50679&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

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Camano Island State Park

Kirti spoke to Jon on the phone. I think he is camped at the State Park south of the last check-in that made it to the blog. He reports that he checked-in one more time... it may still show up.

Apparently they are navigating without proper charts. This part of the trip was not part of the original plan. A simple map is probably sufficient to find Olympia, but it makes it challenging to find good places to camp! They continue to make good progress. I'll update the Google earth data tomorrow.

Jim

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The Pilgrims
Latitude:48.13872
Longitude:-122.51323
GPS location Date/Time:07/28/2011 17:50:35 PDT

Message:Hello everyone! Just checking in to let you know where we are and to say all is well! J, K and J.

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/5W5s5/48.13872N/122.51323W

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Utsalady, Camano Island, Washington

Today's check-in is from the community of Utsalady, Washington.

Here is a wikipedia article on Utsalady: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Utsalady%2C_Washington

They traveled over 19 nautical miles today.

The kmz archive:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/

The daily file:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/110728Pilgrims.kmz

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The Pilgrims
Latitude:48.25254
Longitude:-122.47806
GPS location Date/Time:07/28/2011 14:42:18 PDT

Message:Hello everyone! Just checking in to let you know where we are and to say all is well! J, K and J.

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/5V_IM/48.25254N/122.47806W

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http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=48.25254,-122.47806&ll=48.25254,-122.47806&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

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James Island

This evenings check-in is from James Island. It looks like the stop at Roche Harbor was just for Customs.

James Island is on the east side of the San Juan Islands, not far from Anacortes.

They covered a lot of ground today, traveling over 27 nautical miles.

The kmz archive:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/

The daily file:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/110727bPilgrims.kmz

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The Pilgrims
Latitude:48.51016
Longitude:-122.77692
GPS location Date/Time:07/27/2011 20:27:32 PDT

Message:Hello everyone! Just checking in to let you know where we are and to say all is well! J, K and J.

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/5VV86/48.51016N/122.77692W

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http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=48.51016,-122.77692&ll=48.51016,-122.77692&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

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Roche Harbor, San Juan Island

Today's check-in is from Roche Harbor on San Juan Island. They are now in US waters.

They have traveled over 11 nautical miles from their camp last night.

The kmz archive:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/

The daily file:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/110727Pilgrims.kmz

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The Pilgrims
Latitude:48.60916
Longitude:-123.15361
GPS location Date/Time:07/27/2011 12:23:13 PDT

Message:Hello everyone! Just checking in to let you know where we are and to say all is well! J, K and J.

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/5VEY7/48.60916N/123.15361W

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http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=48.60916,-123.15361&ll=48.60916,-123.15361&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

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Portland Island

Today's check-in is from Portland Island, very near Sidney, B.C.

They traveled over 27 nautical miles today.

The kmz archive:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/

The daily file:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/110726Pilgrims.kmz

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The Pilgrims
Latitude:48.73487
Longitude:-123.36597
GPS location Date/Time:07/26/2011 20:17:35 PDT

Message:Hello everyone! Just checking in to let you know where we are and to say all is well! J, K and J.

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/5Uqqs/48.73487N/123.36597W

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http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=48.73487,-123.36597&ll=48.73487,-123.36597&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

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Camping on a really small island

Kirti reports:

The day started of with North West winds but then the wind turn to strong south east wind so they once again had a hard paddle but the sunny weather make it a little easier. Today they had to navigate through busy waterways around Nanaimo. They estimate they covered 24 Nautical Miles today and their camp is on a very small island.

---

They appear to be on one of the crown islets between Saturnina and Bath Islands in the Flat Top Islands group. I believe this camp is the one identified in Kimantas, the Wild Coast, Volume 3, p 206 (see also map on page 195).

The kmz archive:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/

The daily file:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/110725Pilgrims.kmz

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The Pilgrims
Latitude:49.14611
Longitude:-123.67706
GPS location Date/Time:07/25/2011 16:05:50 PDT

Message:Hello everyone! Just checking in to let you know where we are and to say all is well! J, K and J.

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/5U4OZ/49.14611N/123.67706W

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http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=49.14611,-123.67706&ll=49.14611,-123.67706&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

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Killer Whales Hunting Seals

Kirti writes:

On Saturday's paddle to the southern end of Texada Jonathan and Jenny saw a pod of 5 Killer Orca Whales hunting seals. Normally Seals will jump into the water when you paddle close by but on that day they did not, because they were really scared of what would happen to them if they did. Texada has a very rugged coastline.

Saturday's paddle was really tough since they had to paddle against a light head wind and current, they were hoping to camp on Jedediah Island but the island was jam packed with power boats, so after an circumnavigation of the island looking for a camp, they had to paddle back to South Texada. They ended up paddling 30 Nautical Miles, they started at 7am and were at camp 11.5 hours later.

Today they had a short paddle Ballenas Island and were at camp before 10am and had a chance to rest up.

Tomorrow(Monday) they are planing to camp on Flat Top island near the south east end of Gabriola Island. On Tuesday they will either camp on Pebble beach of outside of Galiano Island or if they feel good, they will paddle longer to Cabbage Island which is small island on North East end of Saturna Island.

If they can find a chart or map for Puget sound. they may continue paddling into Olympia.

Kirti

Ballenas Islands

Today's check-in is from the Ballenas Islands. The Google imagery of the area is not very informative. In The Wild Coast volume 3, Kimantas describes two islands with outstanding biodiversity and some very rare plants. He also describes a camp, but I don't think the check-in location is exactly the camp he lists.

Today's distance traveled is a about 10 nautical miles.

The kmz archive:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/

The daily file:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/110724Pilgrims.kmz

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The Pilgrims
Latitude:49.33987
Longitude:-124.15417
GPS location Date/Time:07/24/2011 10:34:31 PDT

Message:Hello everyone! Just checking in to let you know where we are and to say all is well! J, K and J.

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/5TB_O/49.33987N/124.15417W

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http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=49.33987,-124.15417&ll=49.33987,-124.15417&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

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South Texada Island

Jon and Jenny are on South Texada Island, souteast of Partington Point. They are looking across the Sabine Chanel at Jedediah Island.

Google earth has lots of images in this general vicinity.

They traveled over 22 nautical miles today.

The weather situation seems to be improving. Campbell River reported "Mostly Cloudy" for most of the day. The seven day forecast for Campbell River only shows a chance of rain on Monday, with all other days partly cloudy with sun!

The kmz archive:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/

The daily file:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/110723Pilgrims.kmz

Check-in/OK message from The Pilgrims SPOT Messenger

The Pilgrims
Latitude:49.5087
Longitude:-124.17429
GPS location Date/Time:07/23/2011 19:47:14 PDT

Message:Hello everyone! Just checking in to let you know where we are and to say all is well! J, K and J.

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/5Sr6g/49.5087N/124.17429W

If the above link does not work, try this link:
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=49.5087,-124.17429&ll=49.5087,-124.17429&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

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Texada Island

Today's check-in is from near Favada Pt. on Texada Island.

Distance traveled is over 18 nautical miles.

The kmz archive:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/

The daily file:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/110722Pilgrims.kmz

Check-in/OK message from The Pilgrims SPOT Messenger

The Pilgrims
Latitude:49.74609
Longitude:-124.63803
GPS location Date/Time:07/22/2011 14:56:04 PDT

Message:Hello everyone! Just checking in to let you know where we are and to say all is well! J, K and J.

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/5RzGH/49.74609N/124.63803W

If the above link does not work, try this link:
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=49.74609,-124.63803&ll=49.74609,-124.63803&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

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Bear Sightings Every Day!

From Kirti:

Just talked to Jonathan on the cell phone.

They have seen a bear every day some times more then one, the bear on the beach and they were in their kayaks. They have also seen Orca whales from camp. They have enjoyed great views of mountains still covered in snow.

Today they had their first sunny day and managed to get a tail wind so they were able be surf most of the way into camp and even pass some sail boats. Yesterday however they were fighting the current all day and said they were counting barnacles along the way.

At the start of this section they had calm seas but then it got dark and rained hard. Unfortunately the next 3 days they will have the wind against them. The weather should improve once they get to the sunshine coast.

Kirti

Copeland Islands

Today's check-in is from North Island in the Copeland Islands Marine Park.

Distance traveled is over 16 nautical miles.

The kmz archive:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/

The daily file:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/110721Pilgrims.kmz

Check-in/OK message from The Pilgrims SPOT Messenger

The Pilgrims
Latitude:50.02681
Longitude:-124.82597
GPS location Date/Time:07/21/2011 17:06:19 PDT

Message:Hello everyone! Just checking in to let you know where we are and to say all is well! J, K and J.

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/5RNY2/50.02681N/124.82597W

If the above link does not work, try this link:
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.02681,-124.82597&ll=50.02681,-124.82597&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

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Rendezvous Island South

Today's check-in is from Rendezvous Island South Provincial Park. They have again traveled over 20 nautical miles.

The kmz archive:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/

The daily file:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/110720Pilgrims.kmz

Check-in/OK message from The Pilgrims SPOT Messenger

The Pilgrims
Latitude:50.26797
Longitude:-125.03943
GPS location Date/Time:07/20/2011 18:03:09 PDT

Message:Hello everyone! Just checking in to let you know where we are and to say all is well! J, K and J.

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/5Qm4Q/50.26797N/125.03943W

If the above link does not work, try this link:
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.26797,-125.03943&ll=50.26797,-125.03943&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

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Jon checks in from Cordero Islands

Kirti writes:

I just spoke to Jonathan. He confirmed that they are at Cordero Islands. We camped there in 2007 when paddled in that area. It is great rock ledge camp here is a picture of our friend Sandy relaxing : http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/~walpole/pics/kayak/discovery/25.html

Jonathan said the wind was NW today which meant they were able surf the wind waves. He estimated they covered 25 nautical miles today.

The wind looks like to SE the next 3-4 days which means they will have wind against them.

Kirti

Cordero Islands

Today's check-in is from a small island just north of Blind Channel that appears to be in the group called the Cordero Islands.

Distance traveled is over 23 nautical miles.

The kmz archive:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/

The daily file:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/110719Pilgrims.kmz

Check-in/OK message from The Pilgrims SPOT Messenger

The Pilgrims
Latitude:50.44205
Longitude:-125.49223
GPS location Date/Time:07/19/2011 17:50:49 PDT

Message:Hello everyone! Just checking in to let you know where we are and to say all is well! J, K and J.

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/5Q6XZ/50.44205N/125.49223W

If the above link does not work, try this link:
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.44205,-125.49223&ll=50.44205,-125.49223&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

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Port Neville

Today's check-in is from Port Neville, B.C.

A photo I found on Google Earth:
http://www.panoramio.com/photo/20108034

The kmz archive:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/

The daily file:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/110718Pilgrims.kmz

Check-in/OK message from The Pilgrims SPOT Messenger

The Pilgrims
Latitude:50.49306
Longitude:-126.08682
GPS location Date/Time:07/18/2011 18:04:10 PDT

Message:Hello everyone! Just checking in to let you know where we are and to say all is well! J, K and J.

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/5PUMV/50.49306N/126.08682W

If the above link does not work, try this link:
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.49306,-126.08682&ll=50.49306,-126.08682&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

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Jon and Jenny underway; Curious check-in

I have fallen a day behind the travelers.

Yesterday they checked in from a point on Malcom Island. Tags on the pictures suggest that nearby features are called Orca beach, Bare or Bere Point, and possibly Rubbing Stone Point. If some one can tell me which of these is most authoritative I would appreciate it.

Today they checked in twice from someplace in Johnstone Straight near the Sophia Islands. I can't find any land at their coordinates. This is very strange.

The kmz archive:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/

The daily file:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/110717Pilgrims.kmz

Check-in/OK message from The Pilgrims SPOT Messenger

The Pilgrims
Latitude:50.52936
Longitude:-126.64319
GPS location Date/Time:07/17/2011 16:19:32 PDT

Message:Hello everyone! Just checking in to let you know where we are and to say all is well! J, K and J.

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/5OrP4/50.52936N/126.64319W

If the above link does not work, try this link:
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.52936,-126.64319&ll=50.52936,-126.64319&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

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The Pilgrims
Latitude:50.52936
Longitude:-126.64319
GPS location Date/Time:07/17/2011 16:19:32 PDT

Message:Hello everyone! Just checking in to let you know where we are and to say all is well! J, K and J.

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/5OrP0/50.52936N/126.64319W

If the above link does not work, try this link:
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.52936,-126.64319&ll=50.52936,-126.64319&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

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The Pilgrims
Latitude:50.67044
Longitude:-127.05792
GPS location Date/Time:07/16/2011 20:44:05 PDT

Message:Hello everyone! Just checking in to let you know where we are and to say all is well! J, K and J.

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/5OKjO/50.67044N/127.05792W

If the above link does not work, try this link:
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.67044,-127.05792&ll=50.67044,-127.05792&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

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Clean and dry in Port Hardy

Hello everyone! Jonathan here. We stayed at the West Coast Backpackers in Port Hardy last night and have been cleaning and drying our stuff and provisioning for the next leg of the journey. Pat Kervin of Odyssey Kayaking has been really helpful and has a great system set up for rinsing and drying gear.We've also had a chance to catch up with our blog. Its been great reading Jim's updates and seeing all the information that has been contributed by others, particularly Jon Dawkins and Dave Resler. We're very grateful for all the help! Hopefully, we'll have the opportunity to repay you all soon.

As usual, it rained all day long today, but it wasn't a problem because we've been indoors! It was our first day spent indoors in 20 or so. The trip so far has been much wetter than my previous BC coastal trips - on which I experienced a mix of rain and sunshine. This time it has rained on most days and either drizzled or poured on the others! Actually, we have had a couple of really nice sunny days too, but 17 days of rain in 20 is a bit of a challenge when you are camping and traveling on the sea, and on several of those days it rained all day/night long. I guess they didn't name it the Great Bear Rain Forest for the dry sunny weather! And we have seen bears and plenty of forest. Nevertheless, we have our systems dialed in and have been well prepared for the weather, so it hasn't stopped us and it has still been a very worthwhile trip.  Even in the rain this is a stunningly wild, rugged and beautiful place to be.  We've had some memorable experiences, seen many beautiful sights that few others will ever experience, and we have had exciting wildlife encounters every day so far. The power and scale of it all is something that's probably impossible to express in words, but is felt in every sinew of our tired bodies. I expect the others who have paddled this coast know what I mean. Its a heck of a lot harder to paddle than it looks on an overview map, and every one of the many open crossings is much wider, more exposed and challenging in person, particularly in threatening weather and sea conditions, than you might expect looking at those apparently small channels and gaps between islands on a piece of paper. And paddling the open ocean is always humbling.

As was our plan from the beginning, Kirti is going to finish her trip here and drive our car back to Portland so she can get back to work. I'm going to keep paddling south and Jenny seems to be game for continuing on too, despite the fact that the forecast for the next week seems to call for more of the same rainy weather. But it does look as though we should finally get some favorable winds to go with the rain instead of the persistent southerlies we have been experiencing, and the temperatures will steadily increase as we get further south. If all goes well we will leave here tomorrow morning.

Jon

Jon Walpole checks in by phone

I just had a great conversation with Jon. After crossing to God's Pocket they decided to push on into Port Hardy. They have checked into the hostel; they have had showers; and they are drying out all of their gear. Kirti will be returning to Portland by car. Jon and Jenny will continue south on the inside of Vancouver Island. Weather permitting they will continue their journey on Saturday.

All members of the party are healthy. The bad weather has made paddling more comfortable than spending time on land. For much of the trip the wind and tides conspired so they were usually fighting at least one of the two. They are all tired.

The wildlife has been amazing. The coast is incredibly wild and rugged. Even as they approached Port Hardy they felt as if they were more likely to see bears or wolves than people.

Port Hardy

I haven't spoken to them yet, but they just checked in from Port Hardy!

The kmz archive:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/

The daily file:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/110714Pilgrims.kmz

Check-in/OK message from The Pilgrims SPOT Messenger

The Pilgrims
Latitude:50.72088
Longitude:-127.48883
GPS location Date/Time:07/14/2011 17:16:50 PDT

Message:Hello everyone! Just checking in to let you know where we are and to say all is well! J, K and J.

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/5MxS3/50.72088N/127.48883W

If the above link does not work, try this link:
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=50.72088,-127.48883&ll=50.72088,-127.48883&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

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Resler on Serpent Group

Hi Jim, The google picture of the Serpent Group does not do the site justice, It is truly a gem! Your estimate is just a notch off, the site is the sandy circle with a narrow strand leading to the sandy inlet just immediately south. This link is the approach from the water and viewers can browse the next 12 pictures in the album to get a feel of the special place we called "Hole in the Wall".

Dave

Dawkins on Burnett Bay

Jon Dawkins contributes:

I totally missed that one, huh? They blew right past the Cape. It isn't a long paddle, for sure, and if conditions allow there's no reason to stop. They did get an early start.

The place they landed at on Burnett Bay is close to a cabin built by Randall Washburne back in the day. The folks at westcoastpaddler.com got together and replaced the cabin's wood stove with a thing of beauty built by one of the board regulars. There are lots of wonderful photos on line that were taken there.

For history on the Burnett Bay cabin and the Triquet Cabin (that Jon camped near on his solo OP trip) click on this link: http://washburnemarine.com/CABINS1.pdf

[Jon sent this to me yesterday]

Phone Check-in

Kirti checked in by satellite phone at 3:30pm on Wednesday, 13 July. I was not available so she left an extensive voice-mail. Here is a partial transcription. I have not been able to verify spelling of many of the place names. I will update with corrections as people send them to me. I am posting this on Thursday morning. -Jim

Friday morning (8 July) they had a good tidal push leaving Klemtu. They had a rough crossing of Melbrouke (sp?) Sound. It was the second sunny day of the trip.

Camped on a beautiful islet [Roar Islet] near Seaforth Channel. Woke up to howling wolves.

On Saturday (9 July) they paddled through Gale Passage, which is very narrow with 2 tidal rapids, camping at Islet 48.

Leaving Islet 48 on Sunday (10 July) they went through hundreds of small rocky islands covered with trees. They camped that night in the Serpentine Group [probably the Serpent Group; see images] with views of Hakai Passage and the mainland. They saw lots of sea otters, including one group of 48.

On Monday (11 July) they crossed Hakai Passage and paddled down S??? Sound, covering 30 nautical miles to camp at Penrose Island Marine Park.

Tuesday was a short day, setting up for the crossing of Cape Caution. [Open Bight]

On Wednesday (13 July) morning they rounded Cape Caution. Jonathan did an excellent job navigating through thick pea soup fog. They made very good time, covering 20 nautical miles in 5 hours. They saw gray whales on this crossing.

The trip has been very challenging for Kirti. They have had long open crossings, often against the wind and the tide.

Tomorrow (Thursday) forecast is for headwinds and rain. They hope to camp at the God's Pocket campground, and push on to Port Hardy the following day. They will check in again from Port Hardy.

[I have updated the kmz archive with approximate locations of the reported campsites. Here is the link: http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/110713bPilgrims.kmz - Jim]

Burnett Bay

The travelers continue to make their way south. They covered about 18 nautical miles this morning. Google Earth has several photos of this general area, including this one:
http://www.panoramio.com/photo/19645366
Note that you can navigate to other photos from the same location using the map tool.

The straight line distance to Port Hardy is now less than 27 nautical miles.

The kmz archive:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/

The daily file:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/110713Pilgrims.kmz

Check-in/OK message from The Pilgrims SPOT Messenger

The Pilgrims
Latitude:51.13376
Longitude:-127.68933
GPS location Date/Time:07/13/2011 10:44:35 PDT

Message:Hello everyone! Just checking in to let you know where we are and to say all is well! J, K and J.

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/5M4tv/51.13376N/127.68933W

If the above link does not work, try this link:
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=51.13376,-127.68933&ll=51.13376,-127.68933&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

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Open Bight

Jon Dawkins writes:

They are at Open Bight. A beautiful long sandy beach with lots of bears. They are on the mainland so they are in Brown Bear territory. The beach has a fresh water stream at the east end which should be running and lots of game trails that exit the forest for the beach every 10 - 20 yards or so. I doubt that they will sleep soundly this evening.
Here is a photo that was taken from about where they set off their spot. https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/IOKly5KOnxX8JAqoAWkOtw?feat=directlink

I suspect that they are setting themselves up for rounding Cape Caution and crossing Slingsby Channel near an early morning slack. If so Red Sand Beach in Smith Sound might be their next move.

Rivers Inlet

It looks like we must have missed a check-in or two. They have traveled nearly 50 nautical miles of straight line distance since the last location I have recorded.

They appear to be on Rivers Inlet. They are not too far away from the Duncanby fishing lodge.

The kmz archive:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/

The daily file:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/110712Pilgrims.kmz

Check-in/OK message from The Pilgrims SPOT Messenger

The Pilgrims
Latitude:51.36826
Longitude:-127.77571
GPS location Date/Time:07/12/2011 11:29:11 PDT

Message:Hello everyone! Just checking in to let you know where we are and to say all is well! J, K and J.

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/5LW0B/51.36826N/127.77571W

If the above link does not work, try this link:
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=51.36826,-127.77571&ll=51.36826,-127.77571&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

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Islet 48 images

Dave Resler contributed the following images of the Islet 48 area:

Islet 48 is left center and closing in on high tide so picture a large white sandy beach exposed at low tide.


This is the view looking out from the cozy protected upland campsites on Islet 48.

Some images from near Roar Islet (yesterday's camp) [Updated]

Yesterday Jon Dawkins sent me this:

Canadian paddler, Ron Caves, has some exceptional photos of paddling the North and Central Coast in his Flickr Photostreams. A couple of years ago he stayed on that same site in Roar Islets. This was one of Kayak Bill's camp sites and Ron took this photo of the remains of Bill's signature fire pit: http://www.flickr.com/photos/mtngoat/3924578101/in/set-72157622213295218.

If you aren't familiar with Kayak Bill this link will take you to an excellent article written for Sea Kayaker Magazine by Keith Webb: http://www.seakayakermag.com/2005/Oct05/KayakBillReq.htm

This is one of Kayak Bill's charts showing the Roar Islets site: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dWuqxVKTPKsJi2kdbdbo2A?feat=directlink

I wonder which route they will take in the morning? Directly across Seaforth Channel is Gale Passage which it the most direct and interesting route through the Bardswell Group to Queens Sound.

Dave Resler contributed:
On a different note the Pilgrims are now passing through some of the finest fishing areas on the BC coast :)

Their Roar islet camp is across the channel in the upper left of this photo

If they choose to paddle the outside of Athlone they will pass St. John Harbor where this fish was caught.




Dave

[Update: The last two images are now links to full size images. -Jim]

Islet 48

Jon Dawkins (http://3meterswell.blogspot.com/) contributed the following by email:

Jim,

They are at Islet 48. A very cool camp site and and a strategic one, too. Since they set off the Spot at 11:13AM I'm pretty sure that they went through Gale Passage. Gale splits Athlone and Dufferin Islands and is very narrow on both ends with a large "bath tub-like" lagoon in the middle. During flood tide water enters both the north and south ends to fill the bath tub. On ebb the flow reverses and the bath tub empties into Seaforth Channel and Queens Sound. Timing is important here as there is a fair amount going on. If you look at the chart at this link you can see the passage, the bath tub and the rapids at both ends. The body of water at the top of the image is Seaforth Channel. The water at the bottom of the image is Thompson Bay which opens into Queens Sound.: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/8zhF6r02QZ8ASI278e5y6w?feat=directlink

There is an image from Gary Luhm's website showing the north rapid of Gale Passage. I encourage you to visit his website and check out his images. It is under Galleries/Seakayaking/British Columbia. and described as an "Unnamed Bella Bella Tiderace": http://www.garyluhm.net/home.html. The south entrance is wider and a lot more water flows in and out. We've been stuck there before.

This image looks south from Islet 48 to the McMullin Group, a stepping stone to the Goose Group: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/NWFkqSuOVZIv6aJULIQcVQ?feat=directlink

If they go south to McMullin and Goose they commit to a long-ish crossing of Queens Sound to get back to the shelter of the passages.

Jon

Today's straight line distance was about 11 nautical miles. If they took the route Jon suggests they traveled a remarkably straight course.

The kmz archive:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/

The daily file:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/110709Pilgrims.kmz

Check-in/OK message from The Pilgrims SPOT Messenger

The Pilgrims
Latitude:52.10168
Longitude:-128.38864
GPS location Date/Time:07/09/2011 11:13:29 PDT

Message:Hello everyone! Just checking in to let you know where we are and to say all is well! J, K and J.

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/5JfSI/52.10168N/128.38864W

If the above link does not work, try this link:
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=52.10168,-128.38864&ll=52.10168,-128.38864&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

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Blair Inlet

Today's check-in comes from one of the Roar Islets of Blair Inlet. They are just off Cecilia Island.

They covered at least 20 nautical miles today.

Conditions at the South Hecate Strait buoy show winds out of the NW at 13 in the morning decreasing to 3 in the late afternoon. This buoy is in open water; they were probably in more sheltered conditions. The Bella Bella airport is the closest station that reports observed conditions. It reported cloudy in every observation period except one, which reported light rain. So today was probably relatively dry, with a tail wind!

Here is a 2008 image found with Google earth:
http://www.panoramio.com/photo/14952458

The kmz archive:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/

The daily file:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/110708Pilgrims.kmz

Check-in/OK message from The Pilgrims SPOT Messenger

The Pilgrims
Latitude:52.28636
Longitude:-128.38445
GPS location Date/Time:07/08/2011 17:01:10 PDT

Message:Hello everyone! Just checking in to let you know where we are and to say all is well! J, K and J.

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/5JD8g/52.28636N/128.38445W

If the above link does not work, try this link:
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=52.28636,-128.38445&ll=52.28636,-128.38445&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

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Images from yesterday's route

Jon Dawkins (http://3meterswell.blogspot.com/) contributed the following by email:

After the weather they have had I'll bet Klemtu was a welcome luxery.

Paddling from their camp on Princess Royal Island to Klemtu they would have passed through Laredo Sound: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/3uB1lBdASR3T3pJ7-GibWg?feat=directlink (note that the direction of travel in this photo is opposite of theirs) and into Meyers Passage: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/xBaz6Xh0HqdeW-RBC-CGXA?feat=directlink .

Meyers Passage gets fairly narrow eventually and then opens back up.

It's a pretty area: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/WSIuNDI6cdXdo8mTWy3-lw?feat=directlink.

Klemtu is pretty nice when compared to Bella Bella: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/LupKHL5wlqG8oPrlzEf3cw?feat=directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/S5kRBK4UVySJskfRIEtM8Q?feat=directlink

[I should add that Jon Walpole mentioned on the phone yesterday that in order to arrive before 5pm they were fighting a strong tide for part of their journey yesterday. They were catching eddy's like they were going upstream on a river. -- Jim ]

Phone Update from Klemtu

Jon called this evening from Klemtu. Given the unrelenting cold and wet, they decided to seek shelter in Klemtu. They have found a facility where they can clean up, sleep, wash their clothes, and prepare for the rest of the journey.

Today was the first day they saw another person since leaving Prince Rupert. They have seen boats in the distance, but this is the first time they have been close enough to speak. This person was doing some kind of survey of potential dive sites.

On their way into Klemtu they saw a Grizzly Bear at Meyers Passage. It was very close to the water. They got a good look at each other.

As we have speculated, the weather has been terrible. They have ridden out two major storms. For the first one they were well protected in old growth, but it still sounded like a jet engine outside the tent. They had intense downpours that lasted 36 hours. Their kayaks had 6 in of water inside just from the rain that came in the cockpit area. It rained a lot in that 36 hours!

For the second storm they had very good shelter from the wind created by the topography of the little island on which they were camped.

They continue to battle the huge tides in this region.

They have seen a lot of wildlife. They have seen humpback whales, orcas, porpoises, and 20 to 50 eagles a day. They have also seen a wolf and a grizzly.

They have seen many signs of the rich history of the First Nations in the area, including fish traps.

Jon was in very good spirits, but they are ready for a change in the weather. If I am correctly interpreting the long term pressure forecast, the weather will probably improve as a high pressure builds in the gulf of Alaska in the next several days.

The plan to leave Klemtu about 6:30am tomorrow.

The kmz files are all in this directory:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/~hook/Pilgrims/

This includes today's entry:
http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/~hook/Pilgrims/110707Pilgrims.kmz

Check-in/OK message from The Pilgrims SPOT Messenger

The Pilgrims
Latitude:52.59506
Longitude:-128.52278
GPS location Date/Time:07/07/2011 18:52:03 PDT

Message:Hello everyone! Just checking in to let you know where we are and to say all is well! J, K and J.

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/5If5M/52.59506N/128.52278W

If the above link does not work, try this link:
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=52.59506,-128.52278&ll=52.59506,-128.52278&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

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Some Photos from where they have camped

This is looking back the way they came with Aristzabal in the distance across Laredo Channel. https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/gFQUXIdgksBKNOlt_lORdA?feat=directlink

Here's a photo that is looking out the opposite direction. The "bay" facing down channel is really shallow and dries at low tide. https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/N4VQtGorb_Z5XgKWqpSP9w?feat=directlink

Thanks to Jon Dawkins and Dave Resler for contributing these links.

Princess Royal Island

The party has covered at least 23 nautical miles today. They have camped on Princess Royal Island.

The weather has improved considerably. Around 1:00am the wind subsided. Between 5am and 3pm winds were between 1 and 5 knots at Bonilla Island. They built a little in late afternoon, but have only reached 8 knots. The marine forecast calls for westerly winds at 10 knots tomorrow. The Prince Rupert forecast does not show rain, and indicates some periods of sun, for Thursday, Friday and Saturday. The Port Hardy forecast shows showers tomorrow, but dry on Friday.

Today's kmz: http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/%7Ehook/Pilgrims/110706Pilgrims.kmz

I highly recommend checking out this camp on Google Earth. It looks like a very nice spot!

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The Pilgrims
Latitude:52.68158
Longitude:-128.95271
GPS location Date/Time:07/06/2011 17:16:30 PDT

Message:Hello everyone! Just checking in to let you know where we are and to say all is well! J, K and J.

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/5H-Ri/52.68158N/128.95271W

If the above link does not work, try this link:
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=52.68158,-128.95271&ll=52.68158,-128.95271&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

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South Campania Island

Around midnight last night the weather seems to have calmed to a relatively steady 10 - 12 knots out of the south. While not ideal, this is a great improvement over the storm yesterday. Today's check in shows about 10 nautical miles of progress to the south. Tomorrow winds are forecast to shift to the north. This will be one of their first tailwind days; I'm sure it will be appreciated!

Some experienced readers have included me in speculation about tomorrow's plan. High slack is at 5am. With a favorable tide and a tail wind they should be able to make a good crossing to the south. In 2006 Jon went to Princess Royal Island. They have several options, including Aristazabal Island, and many more to the south.

I have updated the Google map database. Today's link is http://web.cecs.pdx.edu/~hook/Pilgrims/110705Pilgrims.kmz.

Check-in/OK message from The Pilgrims SPOT Messenger

The Pilgrims
Latitude:52.9757
Longitude:-129.3589
GPS location Date/Time:07/05/2011 17:55:58 PDT

Message:Hello everyone! Just checking in to let you know where we are and to say all is well! J, K and J.

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/5HMYn/52.9757N/129.3589W

If the above link does not work, try this link:
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=52.9757,-129.3589&ll=52.9757,-129.3589&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

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Small Island off Campania Island

I think today's SPOT check-in is probably for yesterday's camp. Here is the updated kmz file for Google earth.

Conditions today have been very windy. Bonilla Island reports sustained winds up to 31 knots with gusts up to 43 knots. Winds were worst in the early afternoon, but are still quite strong (23 gusting to 31). Gale warnings continue. The forecast calls for strong winds to continue overnight and much of tomorrow.

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The Pilgrims
Latitude:53.105
Longitude:-129.53957
GPS location Date/Time:07/04/2011 13:53:49 PDT

Message:Hello everyone! Just checking in to let you know where we are and to say all is well! J, K and J.

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/5GdVD/53.105N/129.53957W

If the above link does not work, try this link:
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=53.105,-129.53957&ll=53.105,-129.53957&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

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Phone Update from Campania Island

Kirti called in. All are well.

They have camped on Campania Island. They were planning to paddle further, but have been having strong southerly winds. They have been struggling against wind and tides for the past several days.

The camp I reported as Anger Island was on Ralston Island (possibly misspelled). They experienced a strong storm there. They estimate they may have received 6 inches of rain.

They found several native sites; including fish traps.

They saw many orca whales at Oval Bay.

They have seen lots of minks.

They saw a wolf from the water when leaving Oval Bay.

They are having lots of fun with the 20+ foot tides!

They were in great spirits, although they have really only had one day of good weather.

The weather is deteriorating. They are under a gale warning for tonight and tomorrow. Strong winds and rain are forecast to continue through Tuesday morning. It looks like they are in for a second major storm.

Jon Dawkins contributes photos and local knowledge

I have not been able to post photo links in the comment field. Here are some links to photos of some of the places they have passed or stayed. A photo of the cove on Pitt is located here: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/02dayFVwZdsobuc0cbtC0g?feat=directlink and here: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dsnosRT5lfzY3lnI-ii1uA?feat=directlink

Photos of the camp site on McCauley near Hankin Point are here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/UWbjPaNsp4iN0qFuYkrx7g?feat=directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/GIcVzgeAoEt-7LvSG9weeA?feat=directlink (note the First Nations fish trap)

Depending on the route they take to PH you may be able to find several photos that will work for you in my Picasa Album from a 2009 trip. Feel free to link to any of them. That album is here: https://picasaweb.google.com/stratus5b/TheOutsidePassage2009PrinceRupertToPortHardy#

Jon Dawkins

Pitt Island

Today's check-in is from the south end of Pitt Island.

The updated kmz file.

A photo tagged less than 2km from their reported location:
http://www.panoramio.com/photo/13778272

They covered at least 20 nautical miles today (at least 22 if they went around the back of Anger Island).

Bonilla Island reports winds out of the south at about 16 most of the day. Looks like they are continuing to have cloudy, showery weather with headwinds.

Check-in/OK message from The Pilgrims SPOT Messenger

The Pilgrims
Latitude:53.30459
Longitude:-129.68137
GPS location Date/Time:07/02/2011 18:22:32 PDT

Message:Hello everyone! Just checking in to let you know where we are and to say all is well! J, K and J.

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://fms.ws/5FX45/53.30459N/129.68137W

If the above link does not work, try this link:
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=53.30459,-129.68137&ll=53.30459,-129.68137&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

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High Winds Persist

If you are wondering why we haven't heard from our friends, take a look at the weather. Gale warnings are in effect. The 24 hour weather data from Bonilla Island indicates they have had high winds all day.